Things to consider when using wood as a support for painting
Stretched canvas is a very popular option for pet portrait artists as a support for their paintings. Nonetheless, there are substitute supports that can be just as worthy when you don’t have any canvases to hand. Wood has traditionally be used as a support for oils is one of the earliest types of support for painting. But what is the best type to go for? Your choice will have a bearing on how long your painting will withstand the rigours of the atmosphere. Here is a list of wood products and their suitability as a support for your paintings.
Natural Wood
Oil paint can, in time, become quite brittle and any movement in the support due to changes in temperature or moisture levels can cause the paint surface to crack. Natural wood is especially vulnerable to this, so some precautions should be taken before using it as a support.
Firstly, whatever the wood, it must be well seasoned, as any sap or moisture left in the wood will cause the panel to shrink as it dries out. The grain should be straight and without knots or signs of decomposition. To prevent warping, small-scale panels need to be of a decent thickness, bigger panels will need to be cradled. Cradling involves fastening two batons on the back, across the grain, which should run along the longest length of the panel. Ideally, these fixings should allow for a small amount of movement, as wood will expand and contract with changes in temperature and a panel that is too rigidly cradled may split across it’s width.
The best natural woods to use tend to be hardwoods, well seasoned mahogany being best of the bunch. Walnut is a good option, but can be attacked by woodworm. Oak, ash, beech, elm and chestnut are all acceptable supports if well prepared. Maple has a problem with warping.
Plywood
This has great strength and stability, but may warp badly. Better quality plywood with a least five layers should be alright on smaller panels and with cradling on the larger ones. The better ones will be made using veneers from the mahogany family.
Blockboard
Block board is similar to plywood though it has a more solid core made from batons. This provides a panel less likely to warp than plywood but not as strong. In addition, it’s inclined to be made from poorer quality glues and veneers. It also can be relatively heavy in relation to it’s size.
Chipboard
This can also be called particle board. This form of panel is reasonably strong with good stability. Exposed edges might be easily damaged and it also can be quite heavy, particularly with large panels.
Hardboard
This is made with compressed wood pulp, has one smooth surface and a rough textured reverse side. It is a light, flexible and a stable support, but it’s flexibility will mean that smaller pieces will need to be properly prepared and larger pieces would, ideally, need to be mounted onto a frame. Bonding two sheets together back to back would also create a better panel. If you use the smooth side to paint on, it will need to be sanded to provide a tooth for the ground.
MDF
Medium density fibreboard (MDF) is manufactured in a similar way to hardboard, but is made of thicker sheets, making this a stronger board that is less likely to warp. The surface is not as smooth as hardboard, so accepts grounds easily. On balance, this is perhaps the best type of rigid support available for the pet portrait artist.
